Cities that are just as good (if not better) in winter
Whether it’s romantic Venice or festive Zagreb, these destinations are just yearning to be enjoyed without their usual summer hordes
01/11/2024
Some cities suit winter far more than summer. When the holiday crowds have gone home, there’s less risk of getting a selfie stick in the eye, the accommodation is cheaper, the shops come to life and there are more locals about, which gives an authentic bustle that tourists alone can never provide. Many of the cultural season’s opera, theatre and concerts reach their peak in winter. Some cities are often more atmospheric and festive, too, especially if they come with a light dusting of snow or a veil of mist. These are five of our top picks for cities that work just as well, if not better, in winter than summer.
Sledging on Sljeme; the 169m Zagreb TV Tower crowns Sljeme mountain
Zagreb, Croatia
The southernmost former Austro-Hungarian city before the Balkans, Zagreb combines a rich cultural scene with an easy, urban lifestyle. After sleepy summer, winter breathes new life into the metropolis, which is especially magical during the festive period. Must-sees in the romantic cobbled mediaeval maze of Upper Town (Gornji Grad) are St Mark’s Church, the Stone Gate and the views of the city. A ride on the funicular takes you down to the bicycle-friendly Lower Town (Donji Grad), an elegant mix of grand Austro-Hungarian architecture dappled with parks, a Botanical Garden and squares such as Ban Jelačić. Make a beeline for Maksimir Park, Zagreb’s largest, which has lakes, trails and a zoo.
Among museums, galleries and theatres, the unique Museum of Broken Relationships, which gathers break-up mementos in one place, shows Zagreb’s quirky side. Don’t mistake the perennially vibrant café scene for boulevardier idleness; the locals prefer to do business over coffee – Tkalčićeva Street is a particularly popular spot. Dolac Market, the ‘belly of Zagreb’, sells fresh produce, local delicacies and handcrafted items, while the Christmas market – typically found in the lively Ban Jelačić Square – is even more spectacular than Prague’s: great pains are taken to transform the city into a fairy tale. Zagreb’s culinary scene is a mix of traditional Croatian and contemporary trends. The local dish, štrukli (baked pastry with cheese) pairs perfectly with local wine and craft beer. For winter sports enthusiasts, the ski resort at Sljeme, the peak above Zagreb, is easily reachable by tram. And if you want to extend your trip, this city’s location is ideal for exploring not only the rest of Croatia but also neighbouring Slovenia and Hungary.
Where to stay
The Art Deco Esplanade Zagreb Hotel has a storied past and opulent bedrooms, along with an acclaimed restaurant (said to serve the best štrukli in town), a glamorous cocktail bar and a tranquil spa.
The Grand Canal in Venice (also opening image)
Venice, Italy
The seductive power of La Serenissima defies all rationality and continues to mesmerise. In winter, as the tourist hordes head home, the golden aura of the light-hearted and frivolous summer city gives way to a wraithlike caigo da mar, a still, sunless Venetian mist – it’s all very atmospheric, cosy and romantic. This is the real Venice that Venetians inhabit. You can explore unimpeded her landmarks, the basilica of San Marco, the Doge’s Palace, the Rialto Bridge, Santa Maria dei Frari, Santa Maria della Salute and the Gallerie dell’Accademia. You can get a table without queuing; you can order the authoritative Bellini from Harry’s Bar without recourse to elbows, and you can easily take a trip to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. You might even get a room at the Danieli, where Coco Chanel, Charles Dickens, Charlie Chaplin and Greta Garbo once stayed.
It is a wonderful city just to wander around, marvelling at Venetian ingenuity and good taste and losing yourself in the labyrinth of streets, only to find you end up where you began. Top tip: take an early-morning stroll in the Venetian rush hour of vaporetti and barges and watch the sun’s rays reflect off the burnished façades of late mediaeval palazzi, creating a magical golden light, then head for breakfast to Cantina do Mori, Casanova’s favourite and the oldest bacaro in Venice, founded 1462. Winter here includes the famous Carnevale di Venezia, usually held in February, featuring elaborate masks, costumes, parades and shows. It’s a spectacle well worth building a trip around.
Where to stay
The aforementioned Hotel Danieli expertly blends old and new and is mere steps from the Piazza San Marco.
Neuschwanstein Castle; a swing carousel at Oktoberfest
Munich, Germany
Munich is the capital of Bavaria, the richest part of Germany and the home of BMW, Audi and Bayern Munich Football club. It’s no surprise, then, that the city offers year-round elite-class concerts, opera, sport, food and accommodation. But the Bavarian sense of fun and pride can really be enjoyed throughout winter. The locals love to pull on lederhosen and dirndl, and mill about chatting, drinking beer, taking coffee and shopping. The season begins with Oktoberfest then moves on to the Christmas markets, particularly the Christkindlmarkt at Marienplatz: a riot of festive stalls, handmade crafts, gingerbread, roasted chestnuts and Glühwein backdropped by twinkling lights and Christmas trees.
Winter is when hearty Bavarian cuisine really makes sense: Schweinshaxe (pork knuckle), Weisswurst (white sausage), Kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancake dessert) and warm Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) all washed down with beer. Visiting a traditional beer hall such as Hofbräuhaus adds to the experience. Winter also means thinner crowds at popular attractions like Nymphenburg Palace, the Deutsches Museum, the spiky, gargoyled Rathaus, and King Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein Castle. Located near the Bavarian Alps, Munich is also the ideal base for skiing and snowboarding day trips.
Where to stay
After a day spent exploring, warm up in the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski’s sauna and steam rooms, with views over Munich’s rooftops.
Bayside homes in Hamilton, Bermuda
Hamilton, Bermuda
If you love the beach but don’t like to lounge around all day, then Hamilton is a solid winter getaway. Twenty-one square miles of limestone, it lies 650 miles southeast of North Carolina. You might get three cool weeks in January, otherwise the winter temperature hovers just above 20°C, so you’ll have lovely mild days for exploring the city and its surrounds. Hamilton is a pastel-hued toytown-by-the-sea built off Front Street, which runs alongside Hamilton Harbour. Look out for cultural and historic landmarks, which in the winter will have fewer people due to the cruise ship rush being over. Highlights include the City Hall & Arts Centre, the Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute and the grand Cabinet Headquarters. Pick up some famous Bermuda shorts from TABS (The Authentic Bermuda Shorts) in Walker Arcade.
Outside Hamilton, there are, of course, miles of unspoilt coastline and coral reefs to dive and snorkel. Make a diary date for whale-watching between March to April. There are spectacular Crystal Caves to explore, and don’t miss a visit to the old historic capital St George’s, with its charming colonial architecture. Sailing is huge: every year Bermuda hosts a round of Larry Ellison’s SailGP series. Despite considerable US influence, Bermuda is proudly British – the national sport is cricket. Food is fresh and vibrant and frequently revolves around fish, including rock fish, snapper, turbot, yellowtail, wahoo and mahi mahi. The classic dish is a fish sandwich washed down with a rum swizzle cocktail (don’t mind if we do). All the 60,000 inhabitants know each other by two degrees of separation, so no need for social media, which adds to the friendly atmosphere. As Mark Twain said, “Go to heaven if you want. I’d rather stay in Bermuda.”
Where to stay
Stay at the Rosewood in Tucker’s Point, Bermuda’s Billionaire’s Row, which has an English country house vibe and private access to the largest pink-sand beach on the island.
A local sunbathes by the water; Agadir Medina is a reconstruction of a Moroccan Berber village
Agadir, Morocco
Located on the southwest coast of Morocco, Agadir is set at the apex of a large sandy bay protected by the Atlas Mountains. With temperatures consistently in the mid-20s, it is a reliable winter sun spot, and a base for expeditions into the Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert. Spend a few days exploring this port city, where you can go back in time at the mediaeval-style citadel, Agadir Medina, stroll the corniche promenade and hike the atmospheric Agadir Oufella ruins, before heading to Taghazout.
This nearby village to the north of Agadir’s long sandy beach is a colourful, higgledy-piggledy jumble of charming restaurants, bars and cheap hotels overlooking the Atlantic. This is a surfers’ paradise that offers a unique wrap of Berber and surf culture: in the souk, you can haggle for surfboards and wetsuits, as well as spices, textiles and jewellery. To complement and enhance the surfing vibe, Taghazout has become a hub for wellness and yoga retreats, meditation sanctuaries, and holistic health treatments. If you prefer to (learn to) surf in comfort, check into the Fairmont Taghazout Bay, where the general manager Francis Desjardins is a keen surf dude. The Fairmont’s superb hammam baths will take several years off you. This part of Morocco is also the home of the mysterious argan tree, the properties of whose oil are legendary for reducing signs of ageing in the skin, hair and nails.
Where to stay
Fairmont Taghazout Bay is an idyllic spot right on the golden sands of Taghazout Beach.
