A love letter to Barbados

Kurt’s pocket guide to Barbados

It was July 2008. I took my first trip to Barbados with my then girlfriend, soon to be wife. We landed at Grantley Adams airport and my soul felt free like never before, feeling that sunshine grace my face, proud of my Caribbean heritage. After all, I was Jamaican. Or so I thought.

It was my fiancée Niesha’s dream to get married in Barbados (despite my mum’s tireless efforts to plead Jamaica’s case). The wedding was set for 20 May 2012, but fate was cruel. On 20 March 2012, my dad died, two months before his 50th birthday. Still, we went ahead and took the whole family to Barbados. It was, as you might imagine, emotional.

It was during this trip that my mum began digging around in local archives and, lo and behold, found out her granddad was born in Bridgetown, Barbados. We had been Bajan this whole time! My mum concealed this information until she was a bit a tipsy when it all came out that, contrary to her insistence all these years, we were no longer full-blown Jamaicans.

Now married, the first overseas property I bought was in Barbados, and we’ve been going back ever since. I created my own Caribbean drink, which was endorsed by the Barbados High Commissioner, and even the President. My son, Jacob, spent his first Christmas in Barbados, and it’s true what they say – home is where the heart is.

Dinner time

If you’re a Caribbean foodie like me, you’ll be looking for some good roti. I get mine Bajan style –chicken and potato – from the Sheraton Mall, and follow it up with a glass of mauby, a local digestif made from tree bark.

Where to stay

It has to be the famous Sandy Lane Hotel, where all year round you’re likely to spot a celebrity or two. Enjoy your five-star breakfast with the local paper, The Nation.

The place to be

On Friday nights, it’s Oistins Fish Fry – a year-round street party and local institution. Patrons include Rohan Marley – Bob Marley’s son – who I met there recently. Get a scoop of rum and raisin ice cream from the red stall.

The music mecca

Make the 25-minute walk north of Bridgetown to Rihanna Drive, where the famous singer was born and raised. Rihanna donates $2m to Barbados hospitals every year.   

The tipsy tour

Mount Gay does fantastic rum tours with a Bajan spin in St Lucy. You’ll be shown how to drink rum in the proper way, and I’d suggest eating beforehand!

A slice of history

At Haggatt Hall in St Michael is a statue of Bussa, a free man in Africa who was brought as a slave to Barbados to work at Bayleys Plantation in St Philip.

For the finer things

Head to the Limegrove Lifestyle Centre in Holetown – it has designer brands, cinemas, galleries and more. Basing yourself in this part of town is eyewatering: some rentals start at $15,000 a night.

If you like cricket

Famed Bajan George Challenor was the first great West Indian batsman – in the 18th century. To this day, the island is a great place to check out the sport.

For all the family

Drive inland for a visit to Harrison’s Cave Eco-Adventure Park or embark on a magical underwater experience with Atlantis Submarines in Bridgetown. It runs brilliant daytime and nighttime tours.

When to go

Visit at the end of July for the Crop Over Festival. Rihanna, Lewis Hamilton, and Simon Cowell are usually in attendance!