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A street scene with a bright red building in Dublin's Portobello area.

A stroll through Dublin’s coolest neighbourhoods

Ireland’s sociable capital is made up of patchwork of neighbourhoods, each one as charming as the next. Here’s your guide to the districts that make up the tapestry of the fair city

01/12/2024Updated 22/02/2025

Argentinean bakery Bakeology in The Liberties; eggy delights at Two Pups. Opening image: Flannery’s in Saint Kevin’s (Rebecca Naylor)

The Liberties

Who you’ll see here
One of Dublin’s oldest neighbourhoods, the Liberties is home to a blend of art students, hipsters and families who have lived on the same street for generations. Once the whiskey distilling capital of the world, this is also where you’ll find cool micro distilleries, as well as tiny Michelin-starred restaurants such as Variety Jones and brunch spots with an army of diehard fans. But alongside these modern additions, you’ll also discover remnants of mediaeval Dublin – look out for a segment of the 12th-century city walls on Lamb Alley. Designer Cleo Prickett opened her studio on Meath Street this year, and calls the area “a vibrant, diverse and friendly place, with an old-school local community and businesses who have been super welcoming, inquisitive and always up for a laugh.” 

A street scene of terraced houses.

John Dillon Street in The Liberties runs along the east of St Nicholas’ to the Iveagh Markets (Rebecca Naylor)

Top hangouts
Locals love Two Pups for its excellent coffee and eggs spiked with fermented hot sauce, Fallon’s for an old-fashioned boozer, and the Fumbally, a farm shop-slash-café that often hosts weekend markets.  

A pint of the black stuff at Fallon’s; Michelin-starred Variety Jones (Rebecca Naylor)

Insider tip
Check out the gig calendar for Vicar Street while you’re in town – it’s one of the hottest live music venues in the city.

Inside The Dunmore bar and restaurant.

Rathmines

Who you’ll see here
This predominantly Georgian neighbourhood is a magnet for young Dubliners, who congregate in the pubs, bars and budget-friendly restaurants along the main drag. This street is lined with classic townhouses, along with a few striking steeples and church towers, and it’s a hot spot for vintage fans, who trawl the well-curated charity shops. Chef Reggie White is about to open a new restaurant, Reggie’s, in Rathmines. “I chose to open here because I wanted a neighbourhood,” he says. “The city centre is great, but you don’t really get to know people. I look forward to welcoming many of the same faces for the next 20 years.”

Beamish and complimentary crisps at Blackbird; Rathmines restaurateur Reggie White (Rebecca Naylor). Further above: The Dunmore (Anthony Woods)

Top hangouts
Blackbird is a popular pub for a reason – the lighting is sexy, the music is cracking and there are boardgames dotted around the place for a quiet afternoon. Head to The Dunmore for well-priced bistro fare.  

Whipped goat’s cheese at The Dunmore; the MART Gallery is based in the old fire station in Rathmines

Insider tip
You could easily walk past the MART, but this gallery has great exhibitions and markets.

Roofs of buildings in Portobello.

Portobello

Who you’ll see here
A mix of young families and older residents, who live in the handsome Georgian townhouses and cottages in this quiet and peaceful neighbourhood. “When I first walked through the West Village in New York, it kind of reminded me of Portobello,” says Conor Horgan, an artist and photographer who has long lived there. “There’s a strong community and multiple street parties each year – this year, my neighbour provided hot, freshly smoked salmon for ours.”  

Portobello residents; Lennox Street Grocer. Further above: Portobello by the Grand Canal (Rebecca Naylor)

Top hangouts
On a sunny day, the benches outside Lennox Street Grocer and Brindle are the most coveted spots in town for coffee, pastries or wine by the glass. 

Outside the Lennox Street Grocer in Dublin.

Lennox Street Grocer in Portobello (Rebecca Naylor)

Insider tip
This area used to be the Jewish Quarter, and the Irish Jewish Museum is open to the public every Sunday.

A view of a bridge in Dublin.

Stoneybatter

Who you’ll see here
A legion of loyal Stoneybatterites, who live in the district’s terraced cottages (that also served as the backdrop for the Spice Girls music video Stop), as well as Dubliners who flock there for weekend brunch. “I love Stoneybatter because it’s such a great mix of trendiness and community,” says resident and author Vicki Notaro. “It’s an area full of creatives and diverse, modern families, but also steeped in history. To me, it’s just so quintessentially Dublin.”

Spread Café in Stoneybatter; freshly baked croissants at Slice. Further above: Ha’penny Bridge over the Liffe in Stoneybatter (Rebecca Naylor)

Coffee at The Little Cactus, Stoneybatter (Rebecca Naylor)

Insider tip
The three-day Stoneybatter Festival is held every June, with live music, great food and a neighbourhood dog parade.

The sign for Dartmouth Square in Dublin.

Ranelagh

Who you’ll see here
Well-to-do locals, many of whom will be walking their golden retrievers around the neighbourhood’s pretty parks. There are plenty of hipster coffee shops and gourmet grocers between the residential streets, as well as high-end wine shops and bookstores. On a sunny day, most people hang out on the lawns of either Dartmouth or Belgrave Squares.

A view of buildings in the Ranelagh area of Dublin.

Historic Dartmouth Square homes in Ranelagh. Further above: a small park sits at the centre of the residential Victorian square (Rebecca Naylor)

Top hangouts
The Hill is a cracking neighbourhood (and dog-friendly) pub, and The Butcher Grill serves up one of the best roasts in the city. 

Le Passion cocktail and duck breast at Layla’s rooftop restaurant at The Devlin, Ranelagh (Rebecca Naylor)

Insider tip
Head for a drink up on the rooftop bar of The Devlin for great views out over the neighbourhood and the city beyond.

Take off to Dublin

Where to stay

These three gorgeous hotels are well-placed for exploring all of the city’s neighbourhoods.

The Chancery

Nestled between two of the capital’s oldest districts and just a short cobbled constitutional from Dublin Castle and the Georgian Civic Hall, The Chancery could hardly be better positioned for history-inclined voyagers looking to dig a little deeper into the city’s past. Step inside, however, and this recently opened dwelling is all glitz and glam – from plush velvet booths at modern European eatery Fawn to seventh-floor suites with theatrical self-opening curtains that give way to panoramic views. Sleek and slick interiors in natural, reclaimed materials are interspersed with flashes of colour, while artworks by emerging creatives from The Liberties’ prestigious art school give each space a charmingly local identity.

High Life tip
Tucked quietly beneath this bougie bolthole is the marble-clad Wellness Hub, where you can enjoy a reviving aromatherapy massage or solo siesta after a day of neighbourhood hopping.

Book a stay

Iveagh Garden Hotel

A stylish bistro, chic cocktail bar and secret garden are just some of the standout features of this centrally located hotel. Based just steps from Grafton Street and St Stephen’s Green, this urban oasis has a distinctive Art Deco look, with elegant chandeliers, globe lighting and a black and gold colour scheme. There are 145 deluxe guest rooms and spacious suites to choose from – some rooms also deliver private balconies. Expect Scandi-style interiors, powerful showers, comfortable beds and little touches that make a stay special, from Iveagh’s own toiletries in the bathroom to Barry’s Irish tea in the bedroom. On the weekend, book a spot on the botanical terrace for a full Irish breakfast or brioche French toast.

High Life tip
After a day spent exploring, pop into Elle’s Bar for artfully created cocktails, with syrups made in house by seasoned mixologists. The limoncello raspberry cooler is a favourite.

Book a stay

Ashling Hotel

Stay in the centre of town without feeling as if you’re staying in the centre of town at the Ashling. Nestled on Parkgate Street overlooking Croppies Memorial Park and in front of the canal, this four-star pad not only provides Zen-like views but is superbly situated for exploring. The Stoneybatter neighbourhood is close by, and the hotel is mere minutes from Heuston train station, Phoenix Park, the Guinness Distillery, Dublin Zoo, Kilmainham Gaol, Old Jameson Distillery, the National Museum of Ireland and all the major retail hotspots. The range of warm, welcoming rooms and suites means there’s a suitable option for a range of trips, whether you’re there on a girls’ getaway, couples retreat or family holiday. It’s also a first-time Dublin visitor’s dream.

High Life tip
Sample a dram of Irish whiskey in the Iveagh Bar, which is a sophisticated spot for indulging in one of the country’s favoured pastimes.

Book a stay