Ireland’s sociable capital is made up of patchwork of neighbourhoods, each one as charming as the next. Here’s your guide to the districts that make up the tapestry of the fair city
01/12/2024
The Liberties
Who you’ll see here One of Dublin’s oldest neighbourhoods, the Liberties is home to a blend of art students, hipsters and families who have lived on the same street for generations. Once the whiskey distilling capital of the world, this is also where you’ll find cool micro distilleries, as well as tiny Michelin-starred restaurants such as Variety Jones and brunch spots with an army of diehard fans. But alongside these modern additions, you’ll also discover remnants of mediaeval Dublin – look out for a segment of the 12th-century city walls on Lamb Alley. Designer Cleo Prickett opened her studio on Meath Street this year, and calls the area “a vibrant, diverse and friendly place, with an old-school local community and businesses who have been super welcoming, inquisitive and always up for a laugh.”
Top hangouts Locals love Two Pups for its excellent coffee and eggs spiked with fermented hot sauce, Fallon’s for an old-fashioned boozer, and the Fumbally, a farm shop-slash-café that often hosts weekend markets.
Insider tip Check out the gig calendar for Vicar Street while you’re in town – it’s one of the hottest live music venues in the city.
Rathmines
Who you’ll see here This predominantly Georgian neighbourhood is a magnet for young Dubliners, who congregate in the pubs, bars and budget-friendly restaurants along the main drag. This street is lined with classic townhouses, along with a few striking steeples and church towers, and it’s a hot spot for vintage fans, who trawl the well-curated charity shops. Chef Reggie White is about to open a new restaurant, Reggie’s, in Rathmines. “I chose to open here because I wanted a neighbourhood,” he says. “The city centre is great, but you don’t really get to know people. I look forward to welcoming many of the same faces for the next 20 years.”
Top hangouts Blackbird is a popular pub for a reason – the lighting is sexy, the music is cracking and there are boardgames dotted around the place for a quiet afternoon. Head to The Dunmore for well-priced bistro fare.
Insider tip You could easily walk past the MART, but this gallery has great exhibitions and markets.
Portobello
Who you’ll see here A mix of young families and older residents, who live in the handsome Georgian townhouses and cottages in this quiet and peaceful neighbourhood. “When I first walked through the West Village in New York, it kind of reminded me of Portobello,” says Conor Horgan, an artist and photographer who has long lived there. “There’s a strong community and multiple street parties each year – this year, my neighbour provided hot, freshly smoked salmon for ours.”
Top hangouts On a sunny day, the benches outside Lennox Street Grocer and Brindle are the most coveted spots in town for coffee, pastries or wine by the glass.
Insider tip This area used to be the Jewish Quarter, and the Irish Jewish Museum is open to the public every Sunday.
Stoneybatter
Who you’ll see here A legion of loyal Stoneybatterites, who live in the district’s terraced cottages (that also served as the backdrop for the Spice Girls music video Stop), as well as Dubliners who flock there for weekend brunch. “I love Stoneybatter because it’s such a great mix of trendiness and community,” says resident and author Vicki Notaro. “It’s an area full of creatives and diverse, modern families, but also steeped in history. To me, it’s just so quintessentially Dublin.”
Insider tip The three-day Stoneybatter Festival is held every June, with live music, great food and a neighbourhood dog parade.
Ranelagh
Who you’ll see here Well-to-do locals, many of whom will be walking their golden retrievers around the neighbourhood’s pretty parks. There are plenty of hipster coffee shops and gourmet grocers between the residential streets, as well as high-end wine shops and bookstores. On a sunny day, most people hang out on the lawns of either Dartmouth or Belgrave Squares.
Top hangouts The Hill is a cracking neighbourhood (and dog-friendly) pub, and The Butcher Grill serves up one of the best roasts in the city.
Insider tip Head for a drink up on the rooftop bar of The Devlin for great views out over the neighbourhood and the city beyond.