Postcard… from Lapland

The northern lights are visible in Finnish Lapland for around 200 days a year, with the months between September and March offering the best window for viewing. The trick is to head as far away from other light sources as possible – a lake or hilltop is ideal – and then be on the lookout between 9pm and 2am.

Venturing north also helps. The Finnish Meteorological Institute tracks the geomagnetic disturbances that trigger the northern lights in 12 different locations. Three resorts in the north – Kevo, Kilpisjärvi and Ivalo – see almost double the geomagnetic activity compared to those in the south. You don’t need to wait until the dead of winter either. These disturbances are most active in the spring and autumn.

Finnish Lapland’s capital Rovaniemi is home to Santa Claus Village, where daily meet-and-greets are completely free. It’s open all year round, although of course the setting is at its most magical just before Christmas. For a more intimate experience, try Santa Claus’ Secret Forest in nearby Joulukka. Here, you can become a certified Santa’s Helper at his hidden toy factory.

If you want a good chance of spotting the northern lights, too, head for Northern Lights Village in Saariselkä. Its three-hour ‘Searching for Santa’ experience is led by an elf and includes gingerbread making and a short sleigh ride.

Whether it’s big luxury hotels or small eco-cabins, you can find it all in Finnish Lapland – but there are two standout memory-makers.

For northern light seekers, a night in a glass igloo is a bucket list experience. You can spend hours looking up at the mesmerising light show before falling asleep under the starry sky – all without leaving the comfort and warmth of your bed. Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort in Saariselkä has glass igloos that are big enough for four people.

Meanwhile in Sinettä, there’s the Arctic SnowHotel, which is carved from blocks of snow and ice each year. Each suite is a work of art, but you’ll need to wrap up warm for the stay.

When you’re this far north, the larder is mostly stocked through hunting, fishing and foraging. Reindeer, salmon, wild berries and mushrooms are all among the staples, while in winter a lot of the ingredients will be preserved.

In Rovaniemi, book a table at Arctic Restaurant, which, as its name suggests, puts Arctic ingredients at the centre of its menu. Expect dishes such as sautéed reindeer with potato purée and lingonberry. There’s also Restaurant Aanaar in Inari. It uses everything from lichen to fish from nearby Lake Inari for its delicately put together small plates, which regularly change with the seasons.

The Sámi indigenous people can be found in Finland, Sweden and Norway. In Finnish Lapland, Inari is the Sámi homeland.

It’s here you’ll find Siida, a museum of Sámi culture. There’s also Sajos, home to the Sámi parliament, where you can learn about the Sámi way of life today on guided tours. Some hotels, such as Wilderness Hotels Inari, are also able to offer tours to visit a Sámi reindeer herder.