The Original Guide to Kuala Lumpur

Pre-trip culture checklist

READ: The Weight of our Sky by novelist Hanna Alkaf. Set in 1969, it features a Kuala Lumpur rife with tension, observed through the lens of a Beatles-obsessed 16-year-old protagonist.

LISTEN: I Love KL, a show by local talkback radio station BFM, is an exploration – and celebration – of the city’s many facets and idiosyncrasies. Topics include Indian folk dance and pre-war shophouses.

WATCH: Entrapment, the 1999 heist thriller starring Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta-Jones, is partially set in Kuala Lumpur against the backdrop of the Petronas Twin Towers.

A local’s view

“If it's your first time in Malaysia, the Petronas Twin Towers is a good place to start. Even for a resident like me, it’s still an architectural marvel that doesn't get old. And it allows your mind to calibrate the modernity of the city versus any preconceived ideas you may have had prior to visiting. As for the food, head toThe Chow Kit Hotel for a Malay spread that includes delicacies such as nasi ulam (herbed rice), ikan asam pedas (tangy-spicy fish curry) and a side of paku (fiddlehead ferns). I’d also recommend Soo Kee Mee at the Lot 10 Hutong food court. Order the sang har mee (freshwater prawn noodles) or just a simple kong fu chow (Cantonese noodles).

New view

Kampung Baru (above), the last remaining village in the city, is a treasure trove of attap-roofed houses, excellent Malay and Indonesian food and peaceful views of the Petronas Twin Towers. Head to Saloma Link Bridge at nighttime for a glittery snap of the towers minus the crowds. 

Rainy day saviours

As well as its food, Kuala Lumpur is known for its dizzying variety of malls. So, when the weather is poor outside, take the chance to browse luxury names at The Exchange TRX, pick up high-street pieces at Pavilion KL, or hunt for all things tech at Plaza Low Yat. If you’re in the KL-adjacent suburb of Petaling Jaya, Amcorp Mall is a charming old-fashioned space filled with antiques and small batik shops.

The original

Bak kut teh, a hearty pork rib stew, is said to have been created in Kuala Lumpur’s Klang neighbourhood. In the Hokkien version of the dish, pork bones are stewed for hours with a concoction of Chinese herbs, resulting in tender meat and a tawny-hued soup. It’s often eaten with rice or strips of fried dough called yau char kway. Head to Restoran Weng Heong to enjoy it as part of a warming breakfast.

Bird’s eye view

KL Tower (above) as a tourist destination may seem a little dated, but it’s still worth a trip if only for the 360° view of Kuala Lumpur from its observation deck. Pick a clear day to soak in the skyline vistas as far as the eye can see. 

As seen on screen

The hit film Crazy Rich Asians may have featured a plethora of iconic locations across Malaysia and Singapore, but the Young family’s home was filmed in the grand estate of Carcosa Seri Negara, a sprawling colonial-themed building that once housed state dignitaries and royals. The heritage building – currently undergoing refurbishments and slated to reopen in July 2025 – is renowned for its luxurious afternoon teas set in a regal setting.

Access all areas

Many public spaces and train stations in Kuala Lumpur are accessible via elevators and ramps. However, be mindful that older parts of the city are not equipped with pedestrian walkways. One thoughtfully designed space is the Islamic Arts Museum, Southeast Asia’s largest tribute to Islamic art, which houses more than 10,000 artefacts alongside a collection of rare Islamic art books. Instead of focusing on just Middle East and Persian art, the museum also shines a light on art from China, India, and Southeast Asia to reflect Muslim influence and migration patterns across the entire region. The museum has a step-free entrance and wide sliding doors and is wheelchair accessible.

The sensory six

The one thing

Any local will tell you that the best way to savour Kuala Lumpur’s many diverse cultures is through its food – a mishmash that is unlike anything else in the region. And if there’s one thing you absolutely must eat, it’s the unofficial national dish of nasi lemak. Literally translating to ‘fat rice’, it consists of rice cooked in coconut milk adorned with condiments including a sweet-spicy sambal, fried anchovies, boiled egg, peanuts and cucumber. Variations of the humble banana-leaf-wrapped parcel abound in the city, but for a no-frills version, head to Nasi Lemak Wanjo in Kampung Baru. The same dish is dressed up with chunky chicken legs or rendang at mall chains such as Nale and Ali, Muthu & Ah Hock.

Where next?

Bangkok may be a tad more chaotic than its neighbour down south, but expect a similar mélange of street food, cultural finds and lofty skyscrapers. Other similarities include a sophisticated public transportation system, colossal shopping malls, and fascinating neighbourhoods that reflect the melting pot of residents. Throw in a spot of rush-hour traffic with that.

Take off to Kuala Lumpur