The Original Guide to Las Vegas
Once a neon mirage in the desert that offered cheap thrills, Las Vegas has evolved into a world-class playground where timeless glamour meets luxurious indulgence. Beneath the shimmer of the Strip lies a city constantly evolving, proving that its most authentic tradition is reinvention
Words: Jeremy Long
03/12/2025
The Noble Hustle recounts Colson Whitehead’s existential journey through the beef-jerky-fuelled world of high-stakes poker
Sinatra at the Sands captures Frank Sinatra at the pinnacle of his swaggering, Rat Pack prime
Johnny Depp (Raoul Duke), Benicio del Toro (Dr Gonzo) and Tobey Maguire as a hapless hitchhiker in the screen adaptation of Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas
Pre-trip culture checklist
Read: The Green Felt Jungle is the essential first stop on your Las Vegas literary journey. It pulled back the curtain on mob influence and political power in early Vegas and was a New York Times bestseller for 23 weeks in 1963. For a look at how the city traded its classic show-business era for global brands, Geoff Schumacher’s Sun, Sin & Suburbia is a solid follow-up. Finally, experience the euphoric highs and heartbreaking lows of The Noble Hustle as two-time Pulitzer Prize-winning author Colson Whitehead enters the World Series of Poker with only six weeks to train before the epic event.
Listen: You can’t talk about the sound of Vegas without the King. Elvis Presley’s residency at the International Hotel (now the Westgate) – 636 consecutive sold-out shows between 1969 and 1976 – defined the city’s showmanship. And if Elvis is Vegas flash, Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack are its soul. The essential album to add to your rotation is Sinatra at the Sands, recorded live from the iconic Sands Copa Room. Want a more modern take on Vegas? Dive deep into The Killers, whose anthems ‘Mr Brightside’ and ‘Shot at the Night’ set the tone for a long night out.
Watch: Ocean’s Eleven (1960) remains the ultimate Vegas caper. No offence to Clooney and Pitt, but the Rat Pack’s original love letter to larceny and Las Vegas cool can’t be matched. The Hangover brilliantly captures the thrills and hilarious chaos of a Vegas bachelor party that spirals into an unforgettable, must-see adventure. The dark mob classic Casino captures the seedy underbelly of an evolving city, while Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas turns it surreal.
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area in Nevada is just 17 miles west of the Las Vegas Strip
A local’s view
“Las Vegas will always be about entertainment, but the city has changed – and professional sports helped to reshape its identity. I was lucky enough to be part of this change as the voice in Spanish for the Vegas Golden Knights, the NHL team that won the Stanley Cup in only six years of its existence. Ice hockey in the desert – who’d have thought? Vegas also offers food from everywhere. My favourite is the Mexican seafood at La Mojarra Loca. I also enjoy the trails at Red Rock Canyon or a romantic Saturday night at Ghostbar at the penthouse of The Palms casino, enjoying the best night view of Las Vegas. I couldn't have restarted my life in a better place after leaving Mexico. You name it, Vegas has it all. ¡Viva Las Vegas!”
Sphere entertainment venue is known for its massive LED screens
New view
In 2023, Las Vegas welcomed the next step in global entertainment with the unveiling of Sphere. The exterior is formed by 1.2 million LEDs that turn architecture into art that visitors can’t help but pause and take in. Residencies from U2, The Eagles, Phish and the Backstreet Boys have drawn millions of fans from around the world, which proves that the city still knows how to amaze.
Hidden entrance to The Underground speakeasy and distillery at The Mob Museum; pedestrianised Fremont Street’s Viva Vision canopy is the world’s largest video screen
Rainy day saviours
It doesn’t rain often, but when the rare desert shower falls, duck into The Mob Museum downtown for secrets and stories of old Vegas. You can lose hours wandering through three floors of exhibits, plus grab a Prohibition cocktail in the basement speakeasy and moonshine distillery. Two blocks away is the iconic Fremont Street Experience, a 24-hour outdoor area featuring a 16.4-million-pixel LED canopy with nightly light shows.
All-singing, all-dancing Vegas! The Show tells the story of how the city became a world-famous entertainment destination
The original… showgirls
Feathers, sequins, and extravagance manifest – the Las Vegas showgirl first appeared in 1941 at the El Rancho Hotel and instantly became the city’s living logo. Although the classic showgirl revue Jubilee! ended in 2016, after a 35-year run, productions such as Vegas! The Show still pay homage to this colourful part of the city’s history.
Bird’s-eye view
The High Roller (above) offers a reprieve from the city’s sensory barrage with a panoramic circle of light 550 feet (168m) above the LINQ Promenade. The absolute best time to take a ride on the High Roller is sunset, when the cabins glow and the city ignites into a storm of colour below. It’s a perfect, aerial reveal of the Las Vegas Strip and surrounding city.
Kurt Russell and Kevin Costner in the 2001 action crime film 3000 Miles to Graceland
As seen on screen
Las Vegas seems custom-built for the cinema. Elvis crooned his way through Viva Las Vegas at the Flamingo. Caesars Palace has hosted a Who’s Who list of celebrities, from Friends episodes to Hangover-type shenanigans. (Ask them if Caesar lives there. It never gets old.) Outside the Strip, Hoover Dam has been featured in everything from Transformers to San Andreas, while the ghost town of Nelson was front and centre in the Kevin Costner-led 3000 Miles to Graceland.
A Monorail train travels on an elevated track through the city
Access all areas
The Las Vegas Strip is built for ease of movement with wide sidewalks, ramp access at nearly every resort, and multiple Monorail connections along the Strip. The majority of modern resorts offer hearing-assistive devices and accessible rooms, while places such as AREA15 provide sensory maps for neurodiverse visitors.
The sensory six
Beer on tap at CraftHaus Brewery
The hands-on Pinball Hall of Fame museum
Xiao long bao are a Chinatown staple (Bao Menglong/Unplash)
The interactive Cabinet of Curiosities bar
‘A Glamorous Harvest’ at the Bellagio Conservatory and Botanical Gardens
Creepy Ed Gein’s Cursed Cauldron exhibit at Zak Bagans’ The Haunted Museum
Smell
Near the Arts District, the air fills with citrus and hops from Able Baker Brewing, CraftHaus Brewery and Bad Beat Brewing – a trio of beloved local brew houses, close enough for an effortless evening bar crawl.
Hear
Experience the clang and chime of nearly 400 vintage games at the Pinball Hall of Fame, from 1950s classics to 1990s favourites. It’s 25,000 square feet of childhood joy.
Taste
Taste your way through Vegas’s underrated Chinatown, from grilled skewers at Raku, to the amazing soup-filled dumplings at Xiao Long Dumplings, and steaming bowls of goodness at Noodle Pot. Finish with a nightcap at the Golden Tiki for a perfect evening.
Touch
The Cabinet of Curiosities lounge inside Horseshoe Las Vegas offers visitors a chance to dive into the world of bartending with their mixology masterclass. It’s an engaging, hands-on experience that will have you ready for your own Cocktail cameo.
See
The Bellagio Conservatory is reborn four times a year, as a brilliant team of horticulturists and engineers transforms the 14,000-square-foot botanical gardens into a spectacle of colour and design.
The Sixth Sense
Trade neon for shadows and open your mind’s eye to the paranormal inside Zak Bagans’ The Haunted Museum.
Modern-day supper club Delilah at Wynn Las Vegas
The one spot
Delilah at the Wynn Las Vegas is a 1950s-style supper club where velvet banquettes and swing bands meet modern cuisine. Delilah channels the golden age of Vegas with best-in-class service and decadent fare such as the Delilah beef Wellington. Push the boat out for a night that feels truly cinematic.
Fountain View King Room at Bellagio
Where to stay
For the past few years, Bellagio has been the go-to spot for first-time and repeat visitors because of its central location, Michelin-starred dining scene, and Tuscan-inspired pool garden – an upscale oasis in the summer heat. Out front are the iconic fountains that perform nightly and welcome guests from around the world. Bellagio is chic, curated, and modern – making it the city’s benchmark for elegance.
Tokyo glitters after dark
Where next?
If you love Las Vegas, Tokyo shares many of Las Vegas’s best attributes. Both cities absolutely pulse with neon, rhythm and an atmosphere that strains with energy. In contrast, Tokyo pairs its controlled chaos with a quiet mastery, from late-night sushi counters and techno clubs to quiet shrines and peaceful gardens. It’s another world created by light and possibilities, where nearly every experience feels like art.
