How to eat like a Londoner

When it comes to eating out in London, there’s always something new to discover – so we asked six of the city’s brightest talents to share their essential addresses. Their picks range from tiny local bakeries to Michelin contenders, via Soho institutions, jerk chicken joints and cult cocktail bars. Whether it’s Hector Henderson’s takeaway of choice or Adejoké Bakare’s go-to for pasta, read on for the inside scoop on the city’s ever-shifting food scene.

Adejoké Bakare, chef

What’s special about London’s food scene? The diversity – so many restaurants opened by newcomers are making a buzz. Brixton Village, where I started out, is a great hub for small restaurants. My favourites include Temaki for sushi and, over on Railton Road, Maureen’s Brixton Kitchen for jerk chicken.

Your go-to for comfort food? Quality Wines. Whatever pasta Nick’s making that day, I’ll eat it. And I’ll drink whatever Marcos wants to pour!

What new restaurant has wowed you? Sune in Hackney is the dream neighbourhood restaurant. I want to eat everything on the menu and drink the entire wine list.

For a seriously special meal… I go to Planque: I love Seb Myer’s cooking and the warmth of the welcome, and the wine list is incredible.

David Paw, food writer

On a day off, where do you head? Bake Street in Hackney. From the outside it’s an unassuming neighbourhood café, but the food is outstanding. Its birria tacos and fried chicken sandwiches are the kind of thing you’ll devour and immediately reorder, and the smash burger is London’s best.

The best budget eats? Randolfi’s on Roman Road for proper old-school sandwiches and service, Wong Kei and Café TPT in Chinatown for no-nonsense Cantonese cooking, and Afghan Grill in Bethnal Green for thrilling kebabs, chicken charsi and tea – lots of tea.

An only-in-London address? Singburi, a family-owned restaurant in Leytonstone. It’s cash-only and BYOB, but it’s become hallowed ground for industry folk, thanks to its incredible Southern Thai food.

The dish you still dream of? At Quo Vadis in Soho, Jeremy Lee’s version of îles flottantes is one of the few desserts I refuse to share.

A London institution you love? Every detail is just right at Andrew Edmunds, from the hand-written menu to the perfectly pressed white tablecloths. It’s soulful and incredibly special – one of the last remaining slices of old Soho.

Monica Berg, bartender and entrepreneur  

Your favourite coffee spot? Ozone does coffee so well. I’m Norwegian, so I tend to stick to my filter coffee roots, though, if I need the sugar kick, I’ll occasionally order a mocha. Don’t judge me!

Where do you head for a cocktail? Satan’s Whiskers. it’s close to where I live and they know my go-to: Plymouth Martini with an olive and a lemon twist discard. In summer, they also do a banging frozen selection; Miami Vice, anyone? I also really love Three Sheets, and its new spot in Soho is great.

And for good-time vibes? I’ll head to Rita’s in Soho (opening image). Its Gilda Martini is so fantastic, I literally have the T-shirt. I also love Rochelle Canteen. The food, ethos, location… everything is amazing.

Who serves the best bar snacks? Sune is definitely up there, and I love the simplicity of the snacks at Bar Termini. Velvet By Salvatore Calabrese at The Corinthia also has great snacks.

What’s your favourite spot for dinner? Brawn. I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad experience there.

Anna Higham, baker and pastry chef

The bakery you rate? Eric’s in East Dulwich. Helen Evans has built such a beautiful neighbourhood bakery, and her millionaire’s shortbread is unbelievable. I also love Hackney’s E5 Bakehouse and Toad in Camberwell. 

A London institution you love? The River Cafe. Score a table on the terrace on a summer’s day, and it just feels like magic. The staff also make everyone feel special, whether you’re a big spender or just an impoverished chef, excited to be there. 

A dish that blew your mind? My entire meal at Chishuru. I’ve eaten there twice in the last year and been delighted both times. Joké Bakare is such a joyful person and cook.

Whose desserts always delight you? At Quo Vadis, Jeremy Lee is a man after my own heart when it comes to puddings, with cream, custard and ice cream all on one plate. 40 Maltby Street also has wonderful desserts: I still remember a chestnut and meringue dish from seven years ago…

Hector Henderson, chef  

A London institution you love? Japanese restaurant Ikeda in Mayfair, which is where my family go for all special occasions. My grandad discovered it – and if he liked a place, you always knew it was special.

Your father Fergus Henderson famously co-founded St John. What are its three greatest dishes? My favourites are the langoustines and mayonnaise; grouse when it’s in season; and the madeleines – ideally dipped in ice cream, custard or a glass of Vieille Prune.

The best lunch on a budget? Roti Joupa in Stratford is definitely the cheapest food spot in London. It also serves some of the tastiest food. I always go for the £3 doubles, which is a staple in Trini cuisine and best eaten hot. The aloo pie and the dahl puri with curry are also brilliant. It’s a lovely place that’s full of flavour.

Your favourite London pub? I’ve got two: The French House in Soho and the Golden Heart on Commercial Street. If I’m out, you can usually find me at some point in the night having a Guinness at one of them.

The dish you still dream of? The Peking duck at Imperial Treasure, St James’s. You have to pre-order and it’s not cheap, but it’s incredibly special.

Tomos Parry, chef  

Where do you head for breakfast? Before an early start at Mountain, I’ll drop by Bar Italia, which is open almost 24 hours. They do this thin sandwich with mortadella, and you can sit outside and watch Soho waking up.

Your favourite local eats? I live in Walthamstow and, for me, Blackhorse Workshop Café is the best coffee spot in London. I also love SlowBurn. The menu is delicious and it’s so unexpected. It’s set in the middle of a jeans factory. Etles is another local icon, specialising in hand-pulled Uyghur noodles. Go with a group and share the whole roast chicken. It’s just spectacular.

What newcomer has wowed you? Leo’s – I take everyone there. It does an all-day service, and it’s a great spot for a weekend brunch: homemade chips with fried eggs, olive oil and prosciutto, and copious Bloody Marys.

A London institution you love? Kiln, which serves super-regional Northern Thai cuisine, cooked over fire. The menu changes daily and the energy is incredible. Try whatever fish curry is on and order all the snacks. I also love Gymkhana – it’s a bastion of Indian cuisine, and I’ve spent so many birthdays there.

Your go-to for comfort food? Dr Noodle in New Cross. A bowl of its Szechuan noodles is so comforting, authentic and delicious. I also have a soft spot for a salt beef bagel at Brick Lane’s Beigel Shop. It’s open 24/7 and is close to my restaurant, Brat, so I head there after service.

Take off to London