Good ’hoods: Seville’s Alameda and Macarena districts

Once you’ve visited Seville’s two must-sees – the cathedral and Alcazar Palace – wend your way north to the Alameda and Macarena, the alternative districts of Seville. Twenty-five years ago, the Alameda hosted the city’s most insalubrious streets, but now you can’t move for cracking bars and galleries. The main strip is the tree-lined Alameda de Hercules, watched over by statues of Julius Caesar and Hercules, the city’s two founders, while the Macarena church holds one of Seville’s most adored Virgins. This winning combination of rich history, local colour and authentic character makes these barrios well worth checking out. Use this interactive map to find out the best places to hang, sip and sup.

Tarico

Calle Amor de Dios 14
Andalusia is well known for its rich produce (the name is a riff on ‘it’s delicious’), especially olive oil, of which it’s the world’s largest producer, so be sure to stock up at this store. Travel-handy 100ml bottles or larger 250ml tins come in smoked, ginger, and wasabi flavours, as well as chilli and basil. Go local with heavenly orange blossom-scented body cream and Mirlo (Viognier) or Zaranda (Tempranillo) wine from nearby Cazalla de la Sierra.

El Disparate

Alameda de Hércules 11
Highly creative without being pretentious, this restaurant holds a plum spot on the Alameda de Hercules itself – perfect for people-watching. The menu always delights – think tuna tartare with coconut and almond soup, lamb with hummus and wheatberries, or mango carpaccio with lemon sorbet and mint. Clean, fresh flavours are complemented by an impressive wine list of 200 bottles. Try Cercado del Angel, a red Garnacha from a nearby organic family winery.

El Viajero Sedentario

Alameda de Hércules 77
Walk across the Alameda de Hercules to this quirky little bookstore-cum-café, perfect for an afternoon stop for tea or coffee and homemade cake (try the rich, moist chocolate and almond). It’s a calm, welcoming refuge from the bustling streets. Choose from the cute book-lined interior or the shady terrace, where you can lounge on upcycled wooden-crate sofas with pretty cushions.

Tremenda Muela 

Calle Lumbreras 4
This Alameda bar lacks the glamour associated with cocktail joints but makes up for it in mixology flair. Spartan décor – standard-issue marble-topped tables and wooden chairs – is jazzed up by a fabulous geometric tiled floor. Stand-out cocktail creations are the Coconut Collins (pineapple-infused rum, lime, coconut, passion fruit and ginger ale) and the Lavender Mule (vodka, lavender, lemon and ginger beer). Cocktail-paired themed dinners, such as tequila and tacos, take place on some Thursdays.

Ostras & Puñales

Calle Delgado 4
This bar and grill, the latest venture by owners of popular Alameda bar Lola Por Dios, focuses on oysters and Champagne, the former served either raw and plain, raw with sauce, or baked. Solera, a version with fino sherry and garlic, is insanely delicious, the oysters juicy and succulent. As well as French fizz, there’s Italian, German and, of course, Spanish Cava. Unusually, the alcohol-free offering – Mionetto Prosecco – is dry and well-structured. Non-shellfish alternatives include steak tartare and Thai pork salad.

La Mari Chapu

Mercado de Feria, Calle Feria 98
This tiny eco-conscious shop in Feria Market, close to Condendê bar, is crammed with cute cards, notebooks and jewellery made by local artists – handicraft gift heaven. Brighten up your (or a friend’s) life with colourful upcycled pencil cases and backpacks and fabric pouches. We were particularly tickled by the grey felt ‘Made in Alameda’ bag starring Hercules, and pretty vintage-style Seville postcards, complete with painted wooden Feria chair, embroidered shawl, orange trees, and the Giralda.

Condendê

Calle Feria 98
For Brazilian vibes, perch on a stool at this fun bar in Feria market (the back section, near Plaza Calderón de la Barca). Nibble on global goodies made from various types of flour – chickpea pakoras, cornflour arepas or tapioca pãos filled with cheese, pork, chicken or vegetables as well as gently spiced causa limeña (yellow potatoes, avocado and prawns). Top tipple tips: great Galician wines or tangy white tea and orange kombucha.

La Galeria Roja Shop

Correduría 5
Sister to Lab art gallery, this funky store stocks pieces from one of Seville’s coolest design projects: The Sevillaner. Based on The New Yorker, this series of 60-plus cover designs by different artists features the city’s classic tropes: oranges, flamenco, Feria, Semana Santa, geometric Arabic tiles and Moorish architecture – snaffle a card, poster or calendar. Other highlights: Meri Merino’s delightful animal drawings and Carolina Saiz’s graphic maps, perfectly portable take-homes.

Vinoteca De Sur a Norte

Calle Feria 86
Specialist in organic wine, this long, narrow space on Calle Feria also has biodynamic and natural, sulphate-free wines. Zalema is a native grape in western Seville and neighbouring Huelva province, which makes light refreshing whites – look out for Edalo, or Entusiastico manzanilla for sherry lovers. Choose from 20-plus wines by the glass, paired with tapas of sheep’s cheese, asparagus pâté, Iberian chorizo or smoked sardines at tables in the rear.

Casa Vizcaino

Calle Feria 27
A neighbourhood institution in Calle Feria since 1936, this popular bar is famed for its perfectly chilled Cruzcampo beer (the local brew) and homemade vermouth. Behind the traditional wood front, you’ll find friendly staff serving simple, well-priced tapas – tortilla, grilled tuna and red pepper sandwiches and mojama (salt-cured tuna). It’s tricky to choose between the lively buzz inside or people-watching in the street, which is especially packed on Thursday during the weekly flea market. 

Slope off to Seville