The Original Guide to Rome
From ancient ruins to cutting-edge cocktail bars, creamy carbonara to contemporary art, Rome has been a nexus of culture for more than 2,000 years. As buzz for the sequel to Ridley Scott’s Oscar-winning movie Gladiator hits a high note, we reveal the best reservations, views, local hotspots, cinema screen moments and more
01/11/2024
The Italian edition of Mary Beard’s SPQR: A History of Ancient Rome
Chart-topping Roman rapper Tony Effe
Russell Crowe prepares for combat in Gladiator
PRE-TRIP CULTURE CHECKLIST
READ: SPQR: A History of Ancient Rome
SPQR: A History of Ancient Rome by renowned classicist Mary Beard broaches the massive and complex subject of the rise and fall of the Roman Empire in a way that’s engaging, concise and relatable. If you want to understand the context of the Gladiator movies, it’s essential reading.
LISTEN: Tony Effe
Roman rapper Tony Effe is behind the hit of the summer, ‘Sesso e Samba’, which you’re likely to hear on the radio at some point during your trip, but Jovanotti is still the reigning king of this city.
WATCH: Gladiator
Ridley Scott’s 2000 Oscar-winning film Gladiator tells the story of Maximus, a Roman general turned slave who becomes a gladiator determined to get revenge against the corrupt emperor who killed his wife and son. Naturally, the film took some artistic liberties, but it brings ancient history to life.
The Temple of Asclepius in Villa Borghese
A LOCAL’S VIEW
“Rome is a very enigmatic city, so going with the flow is essential. Embracing its eternal decadence, colours and chaos is the key to enjoying it the most. Rome has so much to offer. Visiting the many museums and monuments is a great way to daydream and fill your soul, but getting lost in the city, in the little alleys, grabbing a slice of pizza, sitting in a piazza looking at the people pass by with an ice-cold white wine or Martini (it depends on the hour for me) is just marvellous. I like to read a book in between a stroll through Villa Borghese, and enjoy the sunset, when all the colours become gold and red. I sometimes sit in a trattoria and ask what the table next to me ordered because it looked so good. To enjoy Rome as a local is to be a little fatalistic and to surrender to the experience. Once that is done, it’s going to be the town that keeps on giving, and that’s what makes it the most beautiful for me.”
NEW VIEW
The Pincio promenade on the southwestern end of Villa Borghese has been a scenic viewpoint since the days of the Grand Tour. It’s especially lovely at sunset, when lovers cling to the balustrade overlooking Piazza del Popolo. To enjoy a similar view but with a cocktail in hand, head up to Cielo, the rooftop bar at the Hotel de la Ville, a swanky five-star retreat by the Rocco Forte Hotels atop the Spanish Steps.
Mariano Rossi’s Apotheosis of Romulus ceiling fresco in Galleria Borghese; historic sculptures and paintings at Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
RAINY DAY SAVIOURS
The marvellous Galleria Borghese (booking essential) inside the Villa Borghese park has recently emerged from a restoration. On the other side of the park, the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea showcases art from the 1800s to today. In the Flaminio district, MAXXI focuses on 21st-century art and design, but the real showstopper is the building itself, designed by the late Iraqi-British starchitect Zaha Hadid.
The Gods and the Machines exhibition at La Centrale Montemartini museum
THE ORIGINAL ROMAN EMPIRE
Colosseum aside, there are countless places to immerse yourself in ancient Roman art and culture. The Capitoline Museums – the world’s oldest museum – has an unparalleled collection and breathtaking views of the Roman Forum. In Testaccio, the Centrale Montemartini displays overflow from the Capitoline Museums’ collection inside a decommissioned power plant. The Museo Nazionale Romano has four locations, including Palazzo Massimo, where you can ogle frescoes from the villa of Livia, the wife of Augustus Caesar, that would look right at home in a modern residence.
BIRD’S-EYE VIEW
Though not technically one of the seven hills of Rome, Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo in Italian) is one of the highest viewpoints in the city. There's an especially scenic spot by the monumental Fontana dell’Acqua Paola atop the hill. Or you could take an elevator to the top of the Vittoriano – the big white monument to Vittorio Emanuele II – in Piazza Venezia for sweeping views of the city centre.
Marcello Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg take a dip in the Trevi Fountain in La Dolce Vita
AS SEEN ON SCREEN
Shot entirely in black and white, the Netflix series Ripley puts a noir-ish spin on the 1999 film The Talented Mr Ripley. Both capture the city’s haunting nocturnal beauty. Nightlife is also a major theme in Federico Fellini’s 1960 classic La Dolce Vita, which follows the exploits of worldly journalist Marcello. It inspired Paolo Sorrentino’s 2013 Oscar-winning film, La Grande Bellezza, which is a contemporary interpretation of the original.
Gelato done right by the Vatican museum; monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi at Janiculum Hill
ACCESS ALL AREAS
Rome’s steep hills and cobblestone streets can make it tricky to navigate for those with mobile impairments, but disabled visitors are granted free admission to many cultural attractions, including the Colosseum, the Vatican Museums and all state-run museums and monuments.
THE SENSORY SIX
Wake up and smell the coffee at Tazza d’Oro
Listen up at Auditorium Parco della Musica, the largest entertainment venue in Europe
Slices of nice at Bonci Pizzarium
A hands-on cheese tasting at a Trastevere pasta-making class
Take it all in from Castel Sant'Angelo’s roof
Get the shivers in the Capuchin Crypt
SMELL
The enticing scent of coffee beans will greet you at Tazza d’Oro, an old-school coffee bar that’s been roasting its own espresso near the Pantheon since 1944.
HEAR
From classical music to rock, there’s always something on at the Renzo Piano-designed Auditorium Parco della Musica.
TASTE
Pizza comes in several forms and you should try them all. For thin-crust Roman style pizza, 180 Grammi is a hotspot. For pizza al taglio (by the slice), it’s hard to beat Bonci Pizzarium. Just avoid peak lunch hours or be prepared to wait in a very long line.
TOUCH
Get your hands dirty with a cooking class. Eating Europe’s Trastevere pasta-making class includes stops at the market in Campo de’ Fiori and a salumeria where you’ll taste porchetta before learning to make fettuccine and ravioli.
SEE
Climb to the rooftop terrace of Castel Sant'Angelo, a mediaeval fortress built atop Hadrian’s tomb, for spectacular views of St Peter’s Basilica and the Tiber.
THE SIXTH SENSE
Descend into the Capuchin Crypt below the Church of Santa Maria della Concezione to see a creepy spectacle: a series of chapels decorated with the bones of more than 3,000 friars arranged in intricate patterns.
A pine margarita at the Stravinskij Bar in Hotel de Russie
THE ONE THING
DO
Hop on the back of a Vespa with one of Scooteroma’s local driver-guides for an unforgettable tour of the city. On a half-day tour, you’ll cover so much more ground than you could on foot or using public transportation – and feeling the wind in your hair as you zip around the Colosseum is a thrill that’s impossible to match. Tour themes include street art, a cinema and a food.
EAT
It’s impossible to choose just one thing to eat in this gluttonous city, but the cacio e pepe at Da Enzo al 29 ranks among the most quintessential Roman dishes. This no-frills family-run spot in Trastevere is the archetypal Roman trattoria – boisterous, bustling and lots of fun. Sip an Aperol Spritz as you wait in line for a table and be sure to end on a sweet note with some tiramisù.
DRINK
Don’t leave Rome without sitting down for a proper aperitivo. The Stravinskij Bar on the lower level of the Hotel de Russie’s beautiful tiered garden is an oasis hidden in the heart of the city, just off Piazza del Popolo. Try the signature Stravinskij Spritz and nibble on delightful almonds and olives.
The Acropolis lords it over Athens
WHERE NEXT?
If you’re into ancient history, Athens should be next on your list. After all, the Acropolis predates the Colosseum by around 500 years. But the Greek capital is similar to Rome in other ways – both have a laidback Mediterranean vibe, where time is a relative concept. And Athens is undergoing a renaissance, with lots of entrepreneurs and creative types forging a new path forward.
